Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

93

2012 Neudorf, Moutere Pinot Noir, Moutere, Nelson

£29, 13.5%, Available from the winery

Pinots from the clays of Moutere always remind me of the wines of Pommard in Burgundy. They are rich, bold, even slightly sturdy wines that are textured, a little gruff even, and extremely impressive. Structured and concentrated, this is savouery, spicy and intense, with notes of incense and sweet summer berries, supported by tannins. 

Cheese

 

 
 

94

2015 Our Fathers Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia

£25, 14.5%, Our Fathers Wines

A wine that tastes as good as it looks, this is made by my fellow Master of Wine, Giles Cooke (we passed in the same year), who donates all of the profits to charity. Sourced from the Ebenezer sub-region of the Barossa Valley, it's rich, but well balanced, with subtle oak, refreshing acidity, fine-grained tannins and sweet bramble and bluberry fruit. Long and refreshing with a savoury tang. 

BeefSpicyBarbecue

 

 
 

93

2014 Zorzal, Eggo Malbec, Tupungato, Mendoza

£15.95, 13.5%, www.corkingwines.co.uk; www.slurp.co.uk

Fermented and aged in concrete eggs, as its name suggests, this is a wonderful blend of Malbec with a little Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Michelini brothers. Typically light and refreshing, with sappy, tangy, black cherry flavours, bright acidity and no wood at all. Modern Argentina at its refreshing, spicy best. 

BeefLambGame

 

 
 

92

2015 Laderas del Tiétar Garnacha, Gredos

£8.50, 14%, The Wine Society

Spain has grubbed up a depressing amount of its Garnacha plantings in the last 20 years, but the grape is still capable of great things, even at this sort of very affordable price. Hailing from the high altitude Grelos Mountains near Madrid, this is a remarkably fresh, refined wine that nods towards Pinot Noir and Cinsault in style. Tangy acidity, raspberry and redcurrant fruit and a long refreshing finish are complemented by silky tannins. Stunning value. 

BeefLambSpicy

 

 
 

93

1998 Fonseca, Guimaraens Vintage Port, Douro Valley

£27.99, 20.5%, Waitrose

Mid-way between a single quinta and not-quite-a-vintage Port, this is rich, sweet and easy to drink, but with more structure and concentration than is immediately apparent. Spicy, peppery and showing a little bit of fiery spirit, this has dark, creamy fruit flavours and a complex, chocolatey finish. 

PorkCheeseDesserts

 

 
 

92

2012 S.C. Pannell Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia

£31.99, 14%, Liberty Wines

Steve Pannell was making great Grenache in McLaren Vale before the variety began to enjoy its modern renaissance as the so-called "Pinot of the south". This combines plum and raspberry fruit sweetness with a backbone of tannin and refreshing acidity, supporting the concentration of the old vine fruit. The oaking is almost imperceptible here. 

BeefLambSpicyBarbecue

 

 
 

94

2013 Domaine Gallety Cuvée Spéciale, Côtes du Vivarais, Rhône Valley

£25, 14%, Scarlet Wines

Who would imagine that the unfancied Côtes du Vivarais could produce a 50/50 Syrah/Grenache blend that tastes as good as anything at this price in the Rhône Valley. Spice and fresh tobacco notes, with some stemmy, whole bunch flavours, focused, mineral-edged red fruits, fine tannins and delicious perfume and balance. One of my discoveries of the summer.  

LambSpicy

 

 
 

93

2014 Domaine Brunet Les Chabriles Vieilles Vignes, Cairanne, Rhône Valley

£10-£15, 13.5%, Vinconnexion

A concentrated, yet lighly oaked, unfiltered, old vine blend of Grenache and Syrah from one of the best domaines in the village of Cairanne, this is my kind of southern Rhône red. Spicy, mineral and focused with youthful red and dark berry fruit, hints of pepper and clove and firm but beautifully integrated tannins. Great value, too. 

BeefLambBarbecue

 

 
 

88

2015 Poggio Civetta, Tuscany

£6.99, 12.5%, Majestic

If you're looking for an easy drinking pink to quaff over the next few weeks, this pale rosé made from "typical Tuscan varieties"  is a snip at under £7 (as long as you buy five other bottles at Majestic). There's a spicy, wild herb-like note to the raspberry fruit that's backed up by a nip of tannin. 

FishVegetables

 

 
 

91

2013 Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay

£15, 14%,

Winemaker Gordon Russell is better known for his skills with Bordeaux than Rhône varieties, but he's very bit as adept at both. This is a classic Kiwi Syrah, combining intensity with freshness, perfume with fruit weight. Pepper spicy, firm and focused, it's more Cornas than Crozes-Hermitage in style, with the structure to age. 

BeefLambGame