Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

94

2015 Neudorf, Moutere Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

£35, 14%, From the winery

Consistently one of New Zealand's best Chardonnays, this is a rich, leesy, barrel-fermented style that treads the line (successfully, I might add) between opulence and pithy freshness. Citrus, oatmeal and honeyed notes are complemented by subtle vanilla sweetness and lovely, understated concentration. 

PorkChicken

 

 
 

94

2013 Neudorf, Moutere Chardonnay, Nelson

N/A, 14%,

The top Chardonnay from Neudorf and one of the best examples of the grape in New Zealand, this is an aromatic, textured, beautifully balanced white with seamless oak integration. Pear, melon and nectarine fruit are intertwined with flavours of cinnamon and citrus-like acidity. This will age well, too. 

PorkChickenFishCheese

 

 
 

94

2012 Kusuda, Pinot Noir, Martinborough

N/A, 13.5%, Hallowed Ground

Is this New Zealand's best Pinot Noir? It's certainly in the top half dozen examples of the grape, a wine that nods towards Chambolle-Musigny as much as its native North Island. It's a subtle, fragrant red with silky tannins, sustaining acidity, chalky minerality and a stylishly judged balance of oak, fruit and tannin. Winemaking of a high order. 

PastaLambGamePorkChicken

 

 
 

94

2012 Tolpuddle Chardonnay, Tasmania

£39.00, 13%, Liberty Wines

A remarkable Tasmanian Chardonnay from Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith, the team behind Shaw & Smith in the Adelaide Hills. This is dense, flavoursome stuff that wouldn't look out of place in a Meursault Premier Cru bottle, with subtle, toasty oak, lots of mid-palate weight, flavours of struck flint, citrus and pear and a long, tapering finish. 

ChickenFishCheese

 

 
 

93

2011 Bird on a Wire Marsanne, Yarra Valley, Victoria

£32, 14%, Naked Wines

Caroline Mooney's wines are some of the most exciting things I've tasted from Australia in the last three years. This barrel-fermented Marsanne shows the variety's classic honeysuckle and aniseed notes, well integrated with oak and sustained by bright acidity. Honey and some white flowers add extra complexity and texture. 

PorkChickenSpicy

 

 
 

95

2007 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Reserve, Kremstal

£45, 12.5%, Berry Brothers

This brilliant biodynamic estate is based in the Wachau on the "wrong" side of the Danube, but this wine hails from vineyards in neighbouring Kremstal. It's an incredible Riesling: intense, focused and minerally with remarkable texture, density and concentration. Honey, white flowers and a stony undertow, with spice, creamy lees and a finish that lasts for minutes. The wine will develop for at least another decade in bottle. 

ChickenFish

 

 
 

94

2010 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay, Nelson

£35 (approximately), 13.5%, Local stockists from the vineyard

Neudorf's status as one of the very best Chardonnay producers in New Zealand is only enhanced by this delicious new release: nutty, savoury, bready notes with well integrated oak, citrus acidity and nuanced lemon, vanilla and peach flavours. The wine has the concentration and structure to age further in bottle. 

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