Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

92

2016 Dog Point Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

£13.50, 13%, The Wine Society

There's always something of a rush to list and sell the new vintage of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, so it's good to see a winery (and a retailer in the shape of the Wine Society) that takes a more relaxed approach to vintages, selling wines with a bit of bottle age. Tangy, savoury and dry, this is a complex, flinty, well balanced white with no oak, allowing the quince, greengage and gooseberry fruit to shine. 

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93

2012 Neudorf, Moutere Pinot Noir, Moutere, Nelson

£29, 13.5%, Available from the winery

Pinots from the clays of Moutere always remind me of the wines of Pommard in Burgundy. They are rich, bold, even slightly sturdy wines that are textured, a little gruff even, and extremely impressive. Structured and concentrated, this is savouery, spicy and intense, with notes of incense and sweet summer berries, supported by tannins. 

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93

2014 La Loba, Ribera del Duero

€16.20, 14.5%, Desoutter & James

Serious, youthful, good value Ribera that's at the lower end of the scale in terms of oaking. Sourced from century old vines in Matanza de Soria, this is part of a new wave of balanced, elegant Tempranillos with lovely freshness and poise. Scented, floral and complex with notes of bramble and balackberry and a refreshing finish. 

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93

2016 Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

£14.99, 13, New Zealand House of Wine; The New Zealand Cellar

Kevin Judd is arguably the most famous exponent of Sauvignon Blanc on the planet, thanks to his work at Cloudy Bay and subsequently at his own Marlborough winery, Greywacke. He certainly knows how to invest the variety with considerable complexity, using wild yeasts to add extra nuances to the exotic lime, gooseberry and stone fruit flavours. Long and very satisfying. 

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94

NV Taylor's, 20-Year-Old Tawny Port, Douro Valley

£35, 20%, Amazon, Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason, Wine Society, the drinkshop.com

Taylor's isn't as well known for its Tawnies as some houses are - its LBVs and Vintage Ports are up there with the very best - but it should be, based on the quality of this 20-year-old release. Figgy, sweet and complex, with beautifully integrated spirit and notes of umami and orange zest. One of those Ports that you don't want to pass to your neighbour. 

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94

2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Auslese Feinherb, Mosel

TBC, 12.5%, www.sybillekuntz.de

One of a series of delicious releases from Sybille Kuntz in 2015, this is rich, but not heavy in the slightest, handling its 50 odd grams of residual sugar with ease, thanks to its thrillingly vivid acidity. Honey, spices, lime and remarkable palate length are the hallmarks of this classic-meets-modern Mosel style. 

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93

1998 Fonseca, Guimaraens Vintage Port, Douro Valley

£27.99, 20.5%, Waitrose

Mid-way between a single quinta and not-quite-a-vintage Port, this is rich, sweet and easy to drink, but with more structure and concentration than is immediately apparent. Spicy, peppery and showing a little bit of fiery spirit, this has dark, creamy fruit flavours and a complex, chocolatey finish. 

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93

2007 S.C. Pannell Nebbiolo, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

£32.09, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

The list of impressive Nebbiolo producers outside north-west Italy isn't a long one, but Steve Pannell, who has worked in Piedmont to familiarise himself with the grape, would definitely be on it. Suitably pale in colour, with the variety's unique combination of austerity and voluptuousness, firm tannins and sweet, savoury autumnal fruit, this wouldn't look out of place in a line up of Barolos. 

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90

2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Qualitätswein, Mosel

TBC, 12%, www.sybillekuntz.de

This is only the "entry point" Riesling in Sybille Kuntz's range, but it's enjoyably fresh, pithy and crisp with green apple acidity and a taut, refreshingly dry finish. The ripeness of the year makes this quite a full flavoured style. 

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94

NV Quinta do Noval 20-Year-Old Tawny Port, Douro Valley

£54, 21%, The Wine Society, Gereral Wine Company, h2Vin, Tanners, Soho Wine Supply

Tawny Port doesn't get a whole lot better than this incredible elixir of a wine. Fig, Christmas cake and rancio notes combine beautifully in this savoury/sweet delight. The fortifiication is perfectly judged, while the finish lingers enticingly on the tongue. 

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