Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

92

2016 Vita Vinea Saperavi, Kakheti

£22, 13, Oddbins

Kakheti is widely acknowledged as one of the very best regions in Georgia, located at altitude on limestone soils. This qvevri-fermented and aged example of the contry's signature red is at the cleaner, less funky end of the natural wine spectrum (good news as far as I'm concerned) with smooth plum and blackberry fruit, savoury tannins and balancing acidity. The lightly earthy note from the qvevvi adds another dimension of complexity.

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92

2009 Vinoterra Saperavi, Kakheti

€15.90, 13%, Geovino

Trademark Saperavi produced by Gogi Dakishvili at Schuchmann Wines – Saperavi is perhaps the most important indigenous red grape variety in Georgia today. Peppery, raspberry and prune fruit with an attractive balsamic note. Spicy, tannic but well balanced. Feels effortless.

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90

2011 Alaverdi Monastery Saperavi, Kakheti

POA, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene

Alaverdi only produce around 20,000 bottles a year, and they had already run out of the 2010 vintage when we visited in November 2012. This 2011 Qvevri sample needs another year for the rather brutal tannins to resolve, but the purity and focus of the dark, berry fruit is evident. There's some attractive ginger spiciness, terrific freshness and what Charles Metcalfe describes very aptly as a “balsamic hint”.

BeefPorkCheese

 

 
 

90

2008 Jakeli Saperavi, Kakheti

N/A, 13.8%, Available from the winery

An excellent qvevri-fermented Saperavi from a small (6ha), organically certified producer in Georgia's Eastern Kakheti region. Spicy nose, and candied cherry fruit. Seriously structured, with an attractive rosemary scent, and perhaps not suprisingly a great match with lamb.

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