Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

94

2015 Neudorf, Moutere Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

£35, 14%, From the winery

Consistently one of New Zealand's best Chardonnays, this is a rich, leesy, barrel-fermented style that treads the line (successfully, I might add) between opulence and pithy freshness. Citrus, oatmeal and honeyed notes are complemented by subtle vanilla sweetness and lovely, understated concentration. 

PorkChicken

 

 
 

93

2012 Neudorf, Moutere Pinot Noir, Moutere, Nelson

£29, 13.5%, Available from the winery

Pinots from the clays of Moutere always remind me of the wines of Pommard in Burgundy. They are rich, bold, even slightly sturdy wines that are textured, a little gruff even, and extremely impressive. Structured and concentrated, this is savouery, spicy and intense, with notes of incense and sweet summer berries, supported by tannins. 

Cheese

 

 
 

92

2015 Neudorf Twenty Five Rows Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

£21, 13.5%, Available from the winery

Neudorf makes some of the most characterful Chardonnays in New Zealand. This is their unoaked, Kiwi-meets-Chablis style that sess no oak, but seven months on lees to pick up some extra texture and weight. Supple and fruity, with notes of white peach and pear, taut acidity and a long, satisfying finish. 

PorkChickenFish

 

 
 

93

2016 Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

£14.99, 13, New Zealand House of Wine; The New Zealand Cellar

Kevin Judd is arguably the most famous exponent of Sauvignon Blanc on the planet, thanks to his work at Cloudy Bay and subsequently at his own Marlborough winery, Greywacke. He certainly knows how to invest the variety with considerable complexity, using wild yeasts to add extra nuances to the exotic lime, gooseberry and stone fruit flavours. Long and very satisfying. 

FishVegetablesCheese

 

 
 

92

2013 Te Awa Single Estate Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay

£17, 13.5%,

Bold, inky and dark, with aromas of clove spice and hot stones, this is a rich, complex Syrah from the Gimblett Gravels, packed with stony complexity, firm tannins, refreshing acidity and brooding blackberry fruit. Why don't more people plant Syrah in New Zealand? 

BeefLambGame

 

 
 

91

2013 Trinity Hill The Gimblett, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay

£17, 13.5%,

An impressive, four-way blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, assisted by Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a dash of Petit Verdot, that nods towards the Médoc as much as its native New World. Floral, refined and well balanced with stylish, savoury oak, a solid backbone of tannin and a tangy, refreshing finish. A wien that slides over the tongue. 

PastaBeefLamb

 

 
 

91

2013 Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay

£15, 14%,

Winemaker Gordon Russell is better known for his skills with Bordeaux than Rhône varieties, but he's very bit as adept at both. This is a classic Kiwi Syrah, combining intensity with freshness, perfume with fruit weight. Pepper spicy, firm and focused, it's more Cornas than Crozes-Hermitage in style, with the structure to age. 

BeefLambGame

 

 
 

90

2013 Newton Forrest Estate Cornerstone, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay

N/A, 13.5%,

Inky, youthful and richly oaked, this is an impressive Gimblett Gravels blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec that needs a year or two to marry in bottle. Spicy, vanilla-scented notes are complemented by flavours of graphite, dark plums and cassis with bright, underlying freshness. 

BeefLambGame

 

 
 

90

2013 Palatia Pinot Noir, Pfalz

£10 (down to £8), 13.5%, Marks & Spencer

Gerd Stepp used to buy wine for Marks & Spencer before he returned to his former life as a winemaker in Germany. M&S' loss is our gain (and they are still stocking his wines anyway) because this is an oustandingly well priced Pinot from a country that has more of the variety in the ground than New Zealand does. It's a smooth, savoury, easy-drinking red with some spice, sweet plum and raspberry fruit, good texture and a long, supple finish underpinned by subtle oak. 

LambPorkChickenFishCheese

 

 
 

95

2010 Seresin Sun & Moon Pinot Noir, Marlborough

£52.99, 14%, Armit Wines

Sun & Moon is the top Pinot from Seresin (made in this instance from the Raupo Creek vineyard) with a price tag to match. It is consistently among the best New Zealand reds and that's the case here with this outstanding 2010, which is maturing with grace and elegance. Concentrated, savoury, yet also refreshing this combines structure with succulence, sustained by acidity and not afraid of tannin. A wine that will age for another ten years. 

PastaLambGameCheese