Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

93

2015 Boutinot Les Six, Cairanne, Rhône Valley

£12.99, 14.5%, D. Byrne

Made with six different varieties - nothing compared with Châteuneuf-du-Pape's 14, but still quite a large number - this is a superb, modern, Grenache-dominated Cairanne, which carries its comparatlvely high alcohol lightly, thanks to the structure and acidity of the 2015 vintage. Spicy tapenade and wild herb aromas segue into a smooth, deftly oaked palate with very fine tannins and a core of sweet, tarry blackberry and blueberry fruit. Outstanding value. 

BeefLambGameSpicyBarbecue

 

 
 

92

2015 Laderas del Tiétar Garnacha, Gredos

£8.50, 14%, The Wine Society

Spain has grubbed up a depressing amount of its Garnacha plantings in the last 20 years, but the grape is still capable of great things, even at this sort of very affordable price. Hailing from the high altitude Grelos Mountains near Madrid, this is a remarkably fresh, refined wine that nods towards Pinot Noir and Cinsault in style. Tangy acidity, raspberry and redcurrant fruit and a long refreshing finish are complemented by silky tannins. Stunning value. 

BeefLambSpicy

 

 
 

93

2014 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Cinsault, Secano Interior/Coelemu, Itata Valley

£10-15, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene

Marcelo Retamal is one of the most exciting winemakers in South America at the moment, crafting wines that are as refreshing as they are restrained. This delicious Cinsault was fermented in old terracotta amphorae, eschewing the oak that marrs too many Chilean reds. The result is a wine with refreshing, cherrystone and raspberry flavours, subtle tannins and impressive palate length. Chile should be making more wines like this.

 

 
 

93

2011 Mas Cal Demoura, L'Infidèle, Languedoc-Roussillon

£19.90, 14%, l'Anson Wines; Cambridge Wine Merchant

A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault from one of the best terroirs in the Languedoc region of southern France, this is a very stylish wine with a minty edge to it. Smooth, subtle and complex, with refined tannins, sweet blackberry and bramble fruit, subtle oak and refreshing acidity. Balanced, nuanced winemaking. 

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94

2013 Los Amigos, Rogue Vine, Grand Itata, Itata Valley

POA, 13.2%,

Made with a combination of old vine Cinsault and País, grown in the southerly Itata Valley, this is one of the most exciting Chilean reds I've had in years. Perfumed, spicy and full of personality, it's fresh and minerally with subtle raspberry and red cherry fruit, understated (non existent?) oak influence and vibrant, cool climate vivacity. Like a Pinot Noir crossed with a northern Rhône Syrah, but with an ancient Chilean personality that is all its own. 

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86

2011 The Curator, The Swartland

£6.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society

By the hot house standards of the Swartland, this is a light and comparatively elegant red blend of mostly Shiraz with some Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Viognier. It's a scented, unoaked style with some pepper spice, raspberry and red cherry fruit and refreshing acidity. 

LambGameBarbecue

 

 
 

89

2007 Ogier, Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône

£25, 15%, Majestic

Too many UK retailers are already on the 2009 and even 2010 vintage of CNDP, so it's good to taste a wine that, while still young, is showing some bottle maturity. This is rich and deeply coloured with dark berry fruits, a hint of clove and a spicy, meaty finish.

BeefLambGameCheese

 

 
 

92

2011 Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block, Western Cape

£19.99 down to £14.99, 14.5%, Waitrose

Marc Kent's cult red blend is always in demand, so you might need to hurry to buy this. It's as good as ever: plush, sumptuous and aromatic, with sweet, ripe, tarry flavours of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsaut and Viognier, good acidity and lots of smoky, palate-warming fruit. 

BeefLambCheese

 

 
 

92

2011 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Cinsault, Itata Valley

£8.95, 13%, The Wine Society

I don't want to overstate the case here, but this could be the start of a Chilean red wine revolution. It's unusual in at least three respects: it's made from old vine, unirrigated Cinsault grown in the cool southerly region of Itata, it was fermented in amphorae and it has a lowly (for Chile) 13% alcohol. The result is is a refreshing, juicy, balanced, cherry and raspberry fruity red of great finesse and length. A welcome relief from over-oaked, over-alcoholic Chilean reds.