Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

94

2015 Neudorf, Moutere Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

£35, 14%, From the winery

Consistently one of New Zealand's best Chardonnays, this is a rich, leesy, barrel-fermented style that treads the line (successfully, I might add) between opulence and pithy freshness. Citrus, oatmeal and honeyed notes are complemented by subtle vanilla sweetness and lovely, understated concentration. 

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92

2015 Neudorf Twenty Five Rows Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson

£21, 13.5%, Available from the winery

Neudorf makes some of the most characterful Chardonnays in New Zealand. This is their unoaked, Kiwi-meets-Chablis style that sess no oak, but seven months on lees to pick up some extra texture and weight. Supple and fruity, with notes of white peach and pear, taut acidity and a long, satisfying finish. 

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90

2014 Domaine des Garennes Empreinte Blanc, Saumur, Loire Valley

€10, 13, From the domaine

Youthful, pithy and still quite tight, this barrel-fermented Chenin needs more time in bottle to show what it's really capable of. Apple, citrus and pear flavours are complemented by stony minerality, some vanilla spice and a tangy, focused finish. 

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91

2014 Domaine Jones Grenache Gris, IGP Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon

£13.50, 13.5%, The Wine Society

Englishwoman Katie Jones' old vine releases from the Maury area are improving with every vintage and are now some of the best in the Roussillon. This Grenache Gris shows the variety's focus, minerality and herbal edge, complemented by notes of pear and beeswax and the faintest kiss of oak. 

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93

2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Mosel

TBC, 12.5%, www.sybillekuntz.de

Delicious, mouth-watering dry Riesling from one of my favourite Mosel producers. The extra palate weight and the warmth of the vintage are a perfect foil for the mienralyy, cirtrus-edged acidity here. Pear and apple, with a hint of spice and a stony, bone dry finish. 

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90

2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel

TBC, 12%, www.sybillekuntz.de

A little less concentrated than the Spätlese release (as you'd expect) but this has ghe focus and freshness that are typical of all of Sybille Kuntz's 2015s. Citrus, green tea and spring flower notes are underpinned by minerally acidity and stony, mouthwatering crispness. As pure as Riesling gets. 

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93

2015 Thistledown Suilven Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

£20-£30, 13%, Alliance Wines

One of those wines that tastes every bit as good as it looks, this Scottish/Australian collaboration eschews the leaner, reductive, early picked style that's favoured by some winemakers Down Under in favour of something a little more substanial and textured. Deftly oaked, oatmealy and refreshing, with a focus and minerality that wouldn't look out of place in the Côte de Beaune. 

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91

2015 Domaine Brunet Les Travers, Cairanne, Rhône Valley

£10-£15, 13%, Vinconnexion

Cairanne whites are something of a rarity - even more so than in nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape - but when they are as impressive as this blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne, you wonder why. Textured, complex and oatmealy, this shows deftly interwoven oak, subtle pear and apricot fruit and a mineral flourish. 

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89

2014 Thistledown Great Escape Cool Climate Textural Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

£13-15, 12.5%, Alliance Wine

A fruity, modern Aussie Chardonnay from the cool (well coolish) Adelaide Hills, where the oak is unintrusive and the pure pear and peach fruit is allowed to express itself. The result is one of those whites you want to glugg by the glass in your nearest wine bar. 

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91

2015 Diemersdal Estate Grüner Veltliner, Durbanville

£11.99, 14%, Majestic

One of those wines that you're just dying to slip into a blind tasting, this comes from cool (for the Cape) Durbanville and wouldn't be outclassed by many Austrian Grüners at the same price level. Spices, green apple and bay leaf notes are underpinned by zesty, crunchy acidity and plenty of mid-palate texture. Promising stuff. 

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