Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

The wines of GD Vajra

91

2013 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont

£13, 13%, Liberty Wines

This is only the "entry point" Dolcetto from the Vajra family, but it's still a deliciously aromatic example of Piedmont's everyday red. Aromatic and fruity, showing flavours of plum and black cherry, as well as aromas of violets, it's at its best when lightly chilled. Aren't we all? Long and refreshing with chalky acidity. 

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96

2010 G.D. Vajra Luigi Baudana, Cerretta, Barolo, Piedmont

TBC, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

Even chalkier and fresher than the Baudana bottling under the same label, this has more perfume, elegance and finesse, with a tautness and minerality that are thrilling to taste. Essence of Serralunga, with fine, silky tannins, good structure and a sweet, complex finish that goes on and on and on. Beautiful Barolo. 

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95

2010 G.D. Vajra Luigi Baudana, Baudana, Barolo, Piedmont

TBC, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

The Luigi Baudana wines come entirely from Serralunga d'Alba, widely considered the best village in the Barolo region. This is more closed and concentrated than the sweeter, riper 2009, but has finer tannins, too, and the classic chalky undertone of eastern Barolo. It's a serious, even sligthly backward wine with excellent structure and ageing potential. Give this wine time. 

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94

2010 G.D. Vajra Ravera, Barolo, Piedmont

TBC, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

More structured than the Bricco delle Viole, this comes from a 2.2 hectare, south- and south-east facing vineyard and is a first release. It's got a bloody, almost iron-like note on the palate, firmish but well integrated tannins and minerally freshness. The tannins need food (preferably a lump of protein) to take away their edge. One to tuck away.

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93

2013 G.D. Vajra Petracine Riesling, Langhe, Piedmont

TBC, 13%, Liberty Wines

There isn't a lot of competition in Piedmont, but this has to be the region's best Riesling. Nor would it look shabby in a tasting with examples from the Alto Adige. Made entirely with clone 49 on poor, sandy soils, it's a dry, tangy style with notes of white flowers and lime zest and a crisp, tapering finish. Beautifully balanced. 

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93

2013 G.D. Vajra, Coste & Fossati, Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont

£18, 13.5%, Wine Liberty

Made from a "proprietary selection of red-stalked clones", the estate's top Dolcetto hails from a single vineyard in Vergne. Rich in colour and more concentrated that the straight Dolcetto d'Alba, it's worth the extra money. Plush and aromatic, with sweet plum and damson fruit, soft tannins and a sweet, lingering finish. Dolcetto doesn't get much better than this. 

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93

2011 G.D. Vajra, Barbera d'Alba Superiore, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont

£23, 15%, Liberty Wines

Slightly higher in alcohol than the regular Barbera, this is mostly sourced from the Bricco delle Viole vineyard, where the vines are 40 years old. Aged in neutral Slavonian oak, it's creamy, smooth and savoury, with impressive texture, notes of liquorice and dried herbs, polished tannins and a warm, full-bodied finish. A Barbera that's definitely worth keeping for a few years. 

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92

2013 G.D. Vajra, Moscato d'Asti, Piedmont

£12, 5.5%, Liberty Wines

How many wines make you want to start dancing? I love the perfumed frivolity of this wine. Sweet, frothy and perfumed, it's a wonderful expression of the Moscato grape. The alcohol is low, the flavours are fresh and aromatic. What's not to like? Try it with a bowl of strawberries. 

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92

2012 G.D. Vajra, Barbera d'Alba, Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont

£16, TBC, Liberty Wines

The straight Barbera d'Alba is mostly fermented in stainless steel, but sees a small percentage of new oak for extra complexity. Savoury, sweet and refreshing, it has a little more acidity and tannin than the Dolcetto, but is still deliciously approachable as a young wine. Pure, tranpsarent and appealing, this shows the elegance that is to typical of this producer's wines. 

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