Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

Oddbins tasting

92

2016 Vita Vinea Saperavi, Kakheti

£22, 13, Oddbins

Kakheti is widely acknowledged as one of the very best regions in Georgia, located at altitude on limestone soils. This qvevri-fermented and aged example of the contry's signature red is at the cleaner, less funky end of the natural wine spectrum (good news as far as I'm concerned) with smooth plum and blackberry fruit, savoury tannins and balancing acidity. The lightly earthy note from the qvevvi adds another dimension of complexity.

BeefLambGameSpicy

 

 
 

92

2013 Filipa Pato FP Branco, Beiras

£11.75, 12.5%, Oddbins

Filipa Pato is one of the most dynamic winemakers in Portugal right now, crafting wines that are every bit as good as those of her father, Luis, albeit in a different, more modern style. This blend of Arinto and Bical, this is tangy, sappy and refreshing, showing the Atlantic influence that colours the wines of Portugal's coastline and flavours of fresh herbs and citrus fruit. Just the thing to drink with a seafood platter, especially if you're in Portugal. 

 

 

Fish

 

 
 

91

2009 Cillar De Silos, Ribera del Duero

£15.50, 14%, Oddbins

Serious, concentrated, inky Tempranillo from Ribera with excellent structure and acidity. This is less oaky than some of this bodega's releases and better for it in my view, with flavours of plum and spice, a touch of vanilla and a backbone of tannin. Should age well, too. 

BeefLamb

 

 
 

90

2011 Domaine Thymiopoulos, Jeunes Vignes de Xinomavro, Naoussa

£12.50, 13.5%, Oddbins

Xinomvaro can be pretty toothsome stuff, even when the vines are young. But this combines the Nebbiolo-like tannnins and dryness with some sweet, supple red fruits. The overall effect is vey tasty indeed, with hints of rose petal, raspberry and wild strawberry set against a background of savoury, spicy tannins. Delicious at the price.

BeefLambBarbecueCheese

 

 
 

89

2009 Verget Saint Véran Grand Elevage, Mâconnais, Burgundy

£17, 13%, Oddbins

White Burgundies from the 2009 vintage don't lack opulence, but the best ones have freshness and bite, too. This is certainly on the ripe and honeyed side, but it has enough freshness for balance, with notes of vanilla and nutmeg spice, pear and citrus fruit and an appealingly honeyed texture. 

PorkChicken

 

 
 

89

2010 Paololeo, Fiore di Vigna Primitivo, Salentino, Puglia

£13, 14.5%, Oddbins

Essence of Primitivo (aka Zinfandel) from the Salento Peninsula, this is rich, ripe and textured, but carries its 14.5% alcohol with ease. The focus here is on fruit rather than oak: plummy, spicy and sweet, with tobacco and Asian spices and enough acidity for balance. Needs robust food to show at its best.

BeefLambBarbecueCheese

 

 
 

88

2012 Thymiopoulos Winery, Atma Malagouzia/Roditis , Central Greece

£10, 12%, Oddbins

Greek white varieties deserve to be better appreciated, partly because theu retain acidity and pefume in a warm climate. This is a case in point: aromatic, lime-scented and surprisingly light, with good, sappy acidity and undertones of summer flowers.

Vegetables

 

 
 

88

2011 Cillar de Silos, Joven de Silos, Ribera del Duero

£10.50, 14.5%, Oddbins

The young red from Cillar de Silos is still a pretty substantial wine, with masses of juicy, plummy, brambly fruit, notes of violet and raspberry on the nose and a backbone of tannin. Bring me a leg of lamb!

LambGame

 

 
 

88

2011 Mas Las Cabes, Jean Gardiés, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon

£9.50, 13.5%, Oddbins

Jean Gardiés is one of the leading names in the Roussillon, making balanced, herbal reds that have a true sense of place. Violets, thyme and rosemary combine appealingly here on the nose, backed up by flavours of raspberry and mulberry, medium weights tannins and a long finish.

BeefLambBarbecueCheese

 

 
 

88

2011 François Lurton, Janeil, Gros Manseng & Sauvignon, Côtes de Gascogne

£7.25, 12.5%, Oddbins

The sort of wine that has made Gascony one of the best value-for-money white wine regions in France, this is a comparativley unusual blend of Sauvignon and Gros Manseng, a grape more often found in Jurançon. It's tangy, refreshing and crisp, with peach, apricot and grapefruit flavours and a zesty finish.

ChickenFishVegetables