Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

Georgia EWBC trip 2012

Simon Woolf visited Georgia as part of an EWBC Press trip in November 2012. These are ten of the most outstanding wines tasted on that trip - all these wines were fermented and matured in qvevris - the giant clay amphoraes traditionally used in Georgia for the last 8,000 years.

These wines are complex and often seriously structured. The white wines in particular tend to fare better with food.

95

2010 Alaverdi Monastery Rkatsiteli, Kakheti

POA, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene

This is the wine that first won me over to the charms of the qvevri – the most astoundingly complex nose of tea leaves, baked apples, jasmine, herbs and plum compote (and bear in mind my description does not remotely do it justice). Very much an amber/orange style, with chewy but perfectly ripe tannins – and yet the fruit shines through effortlessly. Outstanding.

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93

2008 Vinoterra Cabernet Sauvignon, Kakheti

N/A, 13%, Available from the winery

A fascinating example of what happens if you take an international variety (Cabernet Sauvignon in this case) and ferment/mature it in a qvevri – in this case the wine was also matured in oak. Cabernet's minty blackcurrant footprint is clearly present, together with herbaceous, spicy and balsamic hints. This is a big wine, with very ripe fruit, but super fresh and really rather elegant. Perhaps not entirely authentic, but original and stays true to the qvevri style. I drank this with Christmas roast goose and all the trimmings – a tough gig, but it held up.

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92

2009 Vinoterra Saperavi, Kakheti

€15.90, 13%, Geovino

Trademark Saperavi produced by Gogi Dakishvili at Schuchmann Wines – Saperavi is perhaps the most important indigenous red grape variety in Georgia today. Peppery, raspberry and prune fruit with an attractive balsamic note. Spicy, tannic but well balanced. Feels effortless.

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94

2010 Alaverdi Monastery Kisi, Kakheti

POA, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene

Alaverdi's Kisi spends 6 months in the Qvevri, the skins and stalks lending it its deep amber colour, with fine-grained but persistent tannins. The aromas are intensely herbal, almost medicinal with hints of caramel and musk. Quite full bodied, with peachy, cooked stone fruit dominating the palate. Hugely complex, but needs food to show at its best.

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92

2008 Vinoterra Mtsvane, Kakheti

€11.90, %, Available from the winery

Apart from being almost impossible to pronounce (seemingly half the letters are silent), Mtsvane has an entrancing soft, rounded texture, and in this example, an aroma of tea leaves and spiced plums. This is a great example of how these amber wines age effortlessly – and indeed are much better after a couple of extra years in bottle, when the tannins resulting from extended skin contact in the qvevri have integrated a bit.

 

 
 

92

2011 Kera Wine Tsolikouri, Kakheti

N/A, 13.5%, Available from the winery

Apricot stone aroma, intense minerality and savoury fruit. You'd hardly know this qvevri-fermented wine had spent much time on the skins, as there's very little phenolic influence. Beautiful balance, bone dry and a terrific match with a traditional Georgian salad of aubergines and tomatoes.

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91

2011 Vinoterra Rkatsiteli, Kakheti

€11.90, 12.5%, Geovino

A very accessible qvevri wine, with melon, honey and floral aromas giving way to spicy but restrained tannins and apricot kernel. A great introduction to Rkatsiteli and the qvevri style.

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90

2011 Alaverdi Monastery Saperavi, Kakheti

POA, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene

Alaverdi only produce around 20,000 bottles a year, and they had already run out of the 2010 vintage when we visited in November 2012. This 2011 Qvevri sample needs another year for the rather brutal tannins to resolve, but the purity and focus of the dark, berry fruit is evident. There's some attractive ginger spiciness, terrific freshness and what Charles Metcalfe describes very aptly as a “balsamic hint”.

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90

2008 Jakeli Saperavi, Kakheti

N/A, 13.8%, Available from the winery

An excellent qvevri-fermented Saperavi from a small (6ha), organically certified producer in Georgia's Eastern Kakheti region. Spicy nose, and candied cherry fruit. Seriously structured, with an attractive rosemary scent, and perhaps not suprisingly a great match with lamb.

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89

2011 Vinoterra Kisi, Kakheti

€11.90, 12.5%, Geovino

Too young at the moment – winemaker Gogi says wait two years, but there's a bright future for this complex, structured amber wine. The nose has everything from cooked plums, to toffee and caramel. Generous stone fruit and quite full bodied.

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