Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes


2008 Celler Brugarol, Bell-Lloc, Empordà , Empordà

€16, 13.5%,

A blend of Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Samsó, this has a strange, pine resin-like nose reminiscent of Retsina. The palate is a little earthy, with some baked, drying tannins and fading fruit.






2009 Maset Plana, A21, Empordà, Empordà

€8, 14%,

A rather old-fashioned blend of Merlot, Grenache and Cariñena that has seen better days. The tannins are drying out the fruit here, leaving a pruney, leathery residue on the palate.




2009 Maset Plana, Criança Selecció, Empordà , Empordà

€10, 14.5%,

Pruney, dry, raisiny red with baked tannins and dry, chewy tannins. A wine that lacks freshness and vivacity.





2009 Ponsot, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare

Deep ruby with purple notes. Evidence of over-ripeness on the nose and palate, with some volatility, oxidation and extraction. Pruney and tannic, this is the sort of wine that gives Clos de Vougeot a bad name as a Grand Cru. 





2010 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay, Nelson

£35 (approximately), 13.5%, Local stockists from the vineyard

Neudorf's status as one of the very best Chardonnay producers in New Zealand is only enhanced by this delicious new release: nutty, savoury, bready notes with well integrated oak, citrus acidity and nuanced lemon, vanilla and peach flavours. The wine has the concentration and structure to age further in bottle. 





2011 Neudorf Moutere Riesling, Nelson

£17, 9%,

The Riesling from this brilliant Nelson winery is often overlooked, such is the quality of its Chardonnay and Pinot Noirs, but this medium dry style is a delight, all lime peel and stone fruit, with a steely backbone of acidity that wouldn't look out of place in the Rheingau. 





2011 Phaedra Xynomavro Rosé, Macedonia

£9.99, 12.5%, Waitrose

The best red grapes, Greece's Xynomavro among them, invariably produce the best rosé wines. Good on Waitrose for listing a Greek example with ambition and personality: raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, a touch of sweetness and a nip of tannin on the finish.