92
2016 Vita Vinea Saperavi, Kakheti
£22, 13, Oddbins
Kakheti is widely acknowledged as one of the very best regions in Georgia, located at altitude on limestone soils. This qvevri-fermented and aged example of the contry's signature red is at the cleaner, less funky end of the natural wine spectrum (good news as far as I'm concerned) with smooth plum and blackberry fruit, savoury tannins and balancing acidity. The lightly earthy note from the qvevvi adds another dimension of complexity.
Available from (as of date of review): Oddbins
Drinking window: 2018-24
93
2015 Dog Point Vineyard Chardonnay, Marlborough
£21, 13.5%, The Wine Society
Not as well known as the Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc releases, but every bit as good in my opinion, this is frequently among my favourite South Island Chardonnays. Toasty, savoury and enticing, it has citrus and beeswax notes supported by fresh, palate cleasning acidity and a nutty finish. Just starting to develop bottle-aged complexity.
Available from (as of date of review): The Wine Society
Drinking window: 2018-24
93
2012 Neudorf, Moutere Pinot Noir, Moutere, Nelson
£29, 13.5%, Available from the winery
Pinots from the clays of Moutere always remind me of the wines of Pommard in Burgundy. They are rich, bold, even slightly sturdy wines that are textured, a little gruff even, and extremely impressive. Structured and concentrated, this is savouery, spicy and intense, with notes of incense and sweet summer berries, supported by tannins.
Available from (as of date of review): Available from the winery
Drinking window: 2017-22
92
2015 Neudorf Twenty Five Rows Chardonnay, Moutere, Nelson
£21, 13.5%, Available from the winery
Neudorf makes some of the most characterful Chardonnays in New Zealand. This is their unoaked, Kiwi-meets-Chablis style that sess no oak, but seven months on lees to pick up some extra texture and weight. Supple and fruity, with notes of white peach and pear, taut acidity and a long, satisfying finish.
Available from (as of date of review): Available from the winery
Drinking window: 2017-20
94
2015 Our Fathers Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
£25, 14.5%, Our Fathers Wines
A wine that tastes as good as it looks, this is made by my fellow Master of Wine, Giles Cooke (we passed in the same year), who donates all of the profits to charity. Sourced from the Ebenezer sub-region of the Barossa Valley, it's rich, but well balanced, with subtle oak, refreshing acidity, fine-grained tannins and sweet bramble and bluberry fruit. Long and refreshing with a savoury tang.
Available from (as of date of review): Our Fathers Wines
Drinking window: 2018-23
94
2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Auslese Feinherb, Mosel
TBC, 12.5%, www.sybillekuntz.de
One of a series of delicious releases from Sybille Kuntz in 2015, this is rich, but not heavy in the slightest, handling its 50 odd grams of residual sugar with ease, thanks to its thrillingly vivid acidity. Honey, spices, lime and remarkable palate length are the hallmarks of this classic-meets-modern Mosel style.
Available from (as of date of review): www.sybillekuntz.de
Drinking window: 2016-28
93
1998 Fonseca, Guimaraens Vintage Port, Douro Valley
£27.99, 20.5%, Waitrose
Mid-way between a single quinta and not-quite-a-vintage Port, this is rich, sweet and easy to drink, but with more structure and concentration than is immediately apparent. Spicy, peppery and showing a little bit of fiery spirit, this has dark, creamy fruit flavours and a complex, chocolatey finish.
Available from (as of date of review): Waitrose
Drinking window: 2016-20
93
2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Mosel
TBC, 12.5%, www.sybillekuntz.de
Delicious, mouth-watering dry Riesling from one of my favourite Mosel producers. The extra palate weight and the warmth of the vintage are a perfect foil for the mienralyy, cirtrus-edged acidity here. Pear and apple, with a hint of spice and a stony, bone dry finish.
Available from (as of date of review): www.sybillekuntz.de
Drinking window: 2015-19
94
2013 Domaine Gallety Cuvée Spéciale, Côtes du Vivarais, Rhône Valley
£25, 14%, Scarlet Wines
Who would imagine that the unfancied Côtes du Vivarais could produce a 50/50 Syrah/Grenache blend that tastes as good as anything at this price in the Rhône Valley. Spice and fresh tobacco notes, with some stemmy, whole bunch flavours, focused, mineral-edged red fruits, fine tannins and delicious perfume and balance. One of my discoveries of the summer.
Available from (as of date of review): Scarlet Wines
Drinking window: 2016-19
93
2015 Thistledown Suilven Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia
£20-£30, 13%, Alliance Wines
One of those wines that tastes every bit as good as it looks, this Scottish/Australian collaboration eschews the leaner, reductive, early picked style that's favoured by some winemakers Down Under in favour of something a little more substanial and textured. Deftly oaked, oatmealy and refreshing, with a focus and minerality that wouldn't look out of place in the Côte de Beaune.
Available from (as of date of review): Alliance Wines
Drinking window: 2016-19