Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

93

2013 Gaia, Thalassitis, Assyrtiko , Santorini

£14.95, 13%, www.winedirect.co.uk; noel Young Wines; Corks & Cases

Assyrtiko is one of the most under-rated grapes in the world, especially when it's grown on the volcanic soils of the island of Santorini. Bone dry, minerally and deliciously austere, this example from Gaia shows the variety at its delicious best with notes of quinine and lemon zest and incredible extract and concentration. A total bargain at £14.95. 

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91

2012 Hatzidakis, Assyrtikos, Santorini

£13.75, 13.5%, Oddbins

if you're flirting with Greek wines but haven't consumated the relationship yet, this is the place to start. Sourced from the volcanic island of Santorini, it's rich, spicy, yet unoaked, with plenty of weight, notes of pear and fresh hay and a thrilling backbone of stony acidity. Like a cross between a Chablis and a Rhône blend, but with a herbal, Mediterranean twist that is all its own.

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91

2010 Hatzidakis Santorini Assyrtiko

£10.99, 13%, Waitrose

Harry Hatzidakis makes some of the best whites on the volcanic holiday island of Santorini from the wonderful Assyrtiko grape. This is typically fresh and tangy, with a salty undertone, stony minerality and bright, lip-smacking acidity. The wine is shwowing really well right now after two years' bottle age. 

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94

2009 Assyrtiko de Mylos, Santorini

£25, 14.5%, Theatre of Wine

There can't be many more complex Greek whites than this old vine Assyrtiko from the volcanic island of Santorini. Rich and textured, wtih aged flavours of toast and honey underpinned by steely acidity. There's a lovely undertone of Mediterreanean herbs here, a hint of sweetness and a long, minerally finish. Very complex stuff. 

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