Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

88

2014 Weingut Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Morrison Signature, Niederösterreich

£8, 12%, Morrison

It's great to see an Austrian Grüner of this quality in a major supermarket. It's not a power packed wine, but what it lacks in weight, it makes up for in freshness. Floral and medium weight, with some pepper spice, pear and citrus fruit flavours and a zesty, tangy finish. A really good food wine - and I don't say that very often. 

AsianSpicyVegetables

 

 
 

95

2009 Gut Oggau Bertholdi, Burgenland

POA, 13.3%, Dynamic Wines

For me this is the crowning glory of the Gut Oggau range. Single vineyard Blaufränkisch is left on its stems and stalks for 6 weeks, resulting in a structured, complex, yet impressively balanced wine. "Hot", rubber-tyre character to the nose, very focused ripe yet elegant red fruit. The finish lasts and lasts, staying fresh and slightly saline to the very end.

BeefGame

 

 
 

93

2011 Gut Oggau Timotheus, Burgenland

POA, 13%, Dynamic Wines

Just like the caricature on the label, this is a big broad wine. White peaches, apricot and kiwi flavours are all brilliantly knitted together with a moreish creamy, nutty texture. Some skin contact and maturation in large, old oak barrels has provided body and structure.

It's different enough to make you sit up and notice, without being remotely scary or "difficult". Limestone soil.

PorkChicken

 

 
 

90

2010 Gut Oggau Atanasius, Burgenland

POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines

Although this is effectively Gut Oggau's entry level red, there's quite a serious intent to the dark leathery fruit aromas. The fruit is lively, with blackberries dominating the flavour. Elegant tannins lend gravitas to what is a fairly light style. Sandy/gravel soil.

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90

2010 Gut Oggau Joshuari, Burgenland

POA, 13%, Dynamic Wines

Joshuari shows the slightly nervy side of Blaufränkisch, with rather tight but elegant berry fruit. Like all of Gut Oggau's wines, it tastes terrifically fresh, with fruit pips and minerality on the finish.

BeefGame

 

 
 

90

2009 Gut Oggau Mechtild, Burgenland

POA, 13%, Dynamic Wines

Mechtild is one of two single vineyard wines made at Gut Oggau, in this case 60 year old Grüner Veltliner. There's a salty, iodine tang on the nose, yielding to a fat, creamy palate. Fresh acidity and a lovely mineral finish.

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89

2011 Gut Oggau Winifred, Burgenland

POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines

Made from a field blend of Bläufrankisch and Zweigelt, and with a wonderful burnished rose hue. There's an exotic aroma of wild strawberries, and attractive herbaceous character to the lightweight fruit. Just when you think this might be another simplistic summer rosé, it builds to a more complex savoury finish.

PorkChicken

 

 
 

89

2011 Gut Oggau Emmeran, Burgenland

POA, 13.5%, Dynamic Wines

This is the only wine in the Gut Oggau range which defines itself by a single grape variety. There's no mistaking the Gewurztraminer on the nose: delicate rose petal and intense lychee aromas dominate. The limestone soil has given this a satisfying "wet stone" finish. It's bone dry, with just enough acidity to keep things fresh.

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90

2011 Gut Oggau Theodore, Burgenland

POA, 12%, Dynamic Wines

Terrific freshness in this blend of Grüner Veltliner and Weissburgunder (AKA Pinot Blanc) – a beguiling hint of onion skin on the nose gives way to a creamy and slightly vegetal palate, and a mineral finish. This wine spent a few days on the skins, giving it just a bit more structure and body than you might expect.

ChickenAsianFish

 

 
 

95

2007 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Reserve, Kremstal

£45, 12.5%, Berry Brothers

This brilliant biodynamic estate is based in the Wachau on the "wrong" side of the Danube, but this wine hails from vineyards in neighbouring Kremstal. It's an incredible Riesling: intense, focused and minerally with remarkable texture, density and concentration. Honey, white flowers and a stony undertow, with spice, creamy lees and a finish that lasts for minutes. The wine will develop for at least another decade in bottle. 

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