Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

88

2014 Santa Ana Malbec, Mendoza

£5.99, 12.5%, Majestic

Aromatic, attractive and showing all the exuberance and fruit sweetness of Mendoza Malbec at its most appealing, this is all about fruit rather than power, alcohol and oak. There’s enough tannin and structure here to partner a Christmas roast or a thick steak.

Beef

 

 
 

90

2011 Vin de Corse Porto Vecchio, Domaine de Torraccia

£13.95, 12.5%, Yapp Brothers

A four-way Corsican blend of Grenache and Syrah with local Nielluccio and Sciacarello, this is savoury-sweet and complex with a hint of the unshaven rusticity that’s often a feature of the local wines. An unusual French wine that speaks with an Italian accent.

BeefLambGameSpicyBarbecue

 

 
 

90

2012 Thymiopolous Jeunes Vignes , Naoussa

£12.50, 13.5%, Oddbins

Oddbins pioneered Greeek wines in the UK and continues to do a great job of promoting its individual, invariably good value wines. Try this pale, complex Xynomavro, which tastes like a cross between a red Burgundy and a Barolo. The tannins need food to show at their best.

PastaBeefLambChickenSpicy

 

 
 

93

2011 Les Blancs Manteaux, Domaine de la Noblaie , Chinon, Loire Valley

£13.50, 13%, Haynes, Hanson & Clark

The “white coats” in the name refers to the limestone soils that give this remarkable Cabernet Franc its refreshing minerality. Pure, almost transparent winemaking allows the terroir to speak. Grassy, elegant and refined with a long, polished finish and filigree tannins.

PastaBeefLamb

 

 
 

89

2012 Asda Extra Special Dão

£5, 13.5, Asda

A tasty, appealingly priced blend of Touriga Nacional, Jaen and Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), this tastes as good as it looks. Floral, fresh and lightly oaked with subtle red fruit flavours and tangy acidity that refreshes the palate. A total bargain. There aren't many red wines this good selling for a fiver or less. 

LambGame

 

 
 

97

2013 Sybille Kuntz, Riesling Beerenauslese Edelsüß, Mosel

€95, 12%,

What an incredible bottle of wine. Sybille Kuntz is better known for her dry than sweet styles, but this shows that she's equally adept at both. This comes from mostly ungrafted vineyards planted in the 1920s in Niederberg-Helden. It's an exotic wine all right, but the tropical fruit flavours of pineapple and mango are tempered by acidity and extract. A Riesling that lingers tantalisingly on the palate. 

CheeseDesserts

 

 
 

95

2013 Sybille Kuntz, Riesling Auslese Feinherb, Mosel

€39, 13%,

The best and oldest parcels on the Niederberg-Helden Einzellage are used to make this remarkable wine. It's on the dry side for an Auslese, with 51.9 grams of sugar, with the concentration and slaty minerality beautifully entwined. Floral and appealingly honeyed, with notes of nectarine and ripe pear sustained by citrus- and pink grapefruit-like acidity

AsianCheeseDesserts

 

 
 

95

2013 Sybille Kuntz, Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Mosel

€25.50, 13%,

A late picked, yet "dry" style of Spätlese from the Niederberg-Helden, with remarkable concentration and persistence, underlining Sybille Kuntz's reputation as one of the Mosel's best producers. Rich and slightly savoury, with smoky minerality, some stone fruit sweetness, a hint of fennel and a poised, balanced, tapering finish. Exceptional winemaking. 

ChickenAsianFish

 

 
 

93

2000 Domaine Cazes, Ambré, Rivesaltes, Languedoc-Roussillon

£15.95, 16.5%, Prohibition Wines

At only £15.95 a half bottle, this has to be one of the best value fortifieds on the market at the moment. It's a mature, salty, rancio-style wine made from Grenache Blanc and Macabeu that's mid way between a Sherry and a Tawny Port in style. Try it poured over vanilla ice cream or with a walnut tart. 

CheeseDesserts

 

 
 

93

2013 Sybille Kuntz, Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

€17.50, 12.5%,

The Riesling grapes that go into this cuvée come from a series of old vines sites in the Paul Valley close to the River Mosel. It's another very assured performance, with a richness that's almost remiscent of the Pfalz. Musky and faintly exotic, with lovely weight and density, sustained by tangy acidity. The balanced between slight sweetness and acidity is very well judged. 

AsianFishVegetablesCheese