Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

95

2010 Seresin Sun & Moon Pinot Noir, Marlborough

£52.99, 14%, Armit Wines

Sun & Moon is the top Pinot from Seresin (made in this instance from the Raupo Creek vineyard) with a price tag to match. It is consistently among the best New Zealand reds and that's the case here with this outstanding 2010, which is maturing with grace and elegance. Concentrated, savoury, yet also refreshing this combines structure with succulence, sustained by acidity and not afraid of tannin. A wine that will age for another ten years. 

PastaLambGameCheese

 

 
 

93

2014 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Cinsault, Secano Interior/Coelemu, Itata Valley

£10-15, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene

Marcelo Retamal is one of the most exciting winemakers in South America at the moment, crafting wines that are as refreshing as they are restrained. This delicious Cinsault was fermented in old terracotta amphorae, eschewing the oak that marrs too many Chilean reds. The result is a wine with refreshing, cherrystone and raspberry flavours, subtle tannins and impressive palate length. Chile should be making more wines like this.

 

 
 

91

2013 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont

£13, 13%, Liberty Wines

This is only the "entry point" Dolcetto from the Vajra family, but it's still a deliciously aromatic example of Piedmont's everyday red. Aromatic and fruity, showing flavours of plum and black cherry, as well as aromas of violets, it's at its best when lightly chilled. Aren't we all? Long and refreshing with chalky acidity. 

PastaLambGame

 

 
 

94

2008 Contino Reserva, Rioja

£19.99, 14%, Tesco; Berry Bros & Rudd; Moreno Wines; Oxford Wine; Cheers; Harrods

Contino is one of the properties that launched the single estate movement in Rioja, a superb wine that develops beautifully in bottle. 2008 was a late, cool vintage in Rioja, giving this blend of mostly Tempranillo with Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano a refreshing, low key elegance. Sublte and refined, with red fruits, subtle oak, some plummy tannins and deftly integrated oak. 

LambBarbecueCheese

 

 
 

96

2010 G.D. Vajra, Bricco delle Viole, Barolo, Piedmont

TBC, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

So appealing now that you are almost tempted to pull the cork, but give this superlative Barolo some time. Old vines, marl soils, a top vintage and brilliant winemaking all combine beautifully here. Elegant, minerally and poised, this has a red fruits sweetness that is almost reminiscent of Pinot Noir, but with a firmer backbone of acidity and tannin. Fine, silky and very long. 

PastaBeefLamb

 

 
 

96

2010 G.D. Vajra Luigi Baudana, Cerretta, Barolo, Piedmont

TBC, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

Even chalkier and fresher than the Baudana bottling under the same label, this has more perfume, elegance and finesse, with a tautness and minerality that are thrilling to taste. Essence of Serralunga, with fine, silky tannins, good structure and a sweet, complex finish that goes on and on and on. Beautiful Barolo. 

BeefPastaLambGameCheese

 

 
 

95

2010 G.D. Vajra Luigi Baudana, Baudana, Barolo, Piedmont

TBC, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

The Luigi Baudana wines come entirely from Serralunga d'Alba, widely considered the best village in the Barolo region. This is more closed and concentrated than the sweeter, riper 2009, but has finer tannins, too, and the classic chalky undertone of eastern Barolo. It's a serious, even sligthly backward wine with excellent structure and ageing potential. Give this wine time. 

PastaBeefLamb

 

 
 

94

2010 G.D. Vajra Ravera, Barolo, Piedmont

TBC, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

More structured than the Bricco delle Viole, this comes from a 2.2 hectare, south- and south-east facing vineyard and is a first release. It's got a bloody, almost iron-like note on the palate, firmish but well integrated tannins and minerally freshness. The tannins need food (preferably a lump of protein) to take away their edge. One to tuck away.

PastaBeefLambGameBarbecueCheese

 

 
 

93

2013 Gaia, Thalassitis, Assyrtiko , Santorini

£14.95, 13%, www.winedirect.co.uk; noel Young Wines; Corks & Cases

Assyrtiko is one of the most under-rated grapes in the world, especially when it's grown on the volcanic soils of the island of Santorini. Bone dry, minerally and deliciously austere, this example from Gaia shows the variety at its delicious best with notes of quinine and lemon zest and incredible extract and concentration. A total bargain at £14.95. 

FishVegetablesCheese

 

 
 

93

2013 G.D. Vajra Petracine Riesling, Langhe, Piedmont

TBC, 13%, Liberty Wines

There isn't a lot of competition in Piedmont, but this has to be the region's best Riesling. Nor would it look shabby in a tasting with examples from the Alto Adige. Made entirely with clone 49 on poor, sandy soils, it's a dry, tangy style with notes of white flowers and lime zest and a crisp, tapering finish. Beautifully balanced. 

ChickenAsianFish