Tim Atkin | Master of Wine

Tim’s Tasting Notes

96

2014 Koyle Cerro Basalto, Los Lingues, Colchagua Valley

£17, 14, The Wine Society

Grown on basalt soils identified as ideal by the French terroir consultant, Claude Bourguignon, for Mediterranean grapes, this is a stunning blend of mostly Mourvèdre with Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. Liquorice, damson, tapenade and blackberry flavours are embellished by bright acidity, savoury, grippy tannins and just a hint of oak.

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89

2015 Rojalet Negre, Montsant

£7.99, 13.5, Majestic

Montsant is not as famous as neighbouring Priorat, but generally offers much better value. Blending Garnacha and Carignan, this isn't short of alcohol (we're close to the Med after all), but it has plenty of spice, plum and bramble fruit concentration and stony minerality for balance. In summer, it would make a great barbecue red. Right now, try it with winter stew. 

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93

2016 Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

£14.99, 13, New Zealand House of Wine; The New Zealand Cellar

Kevin Judd is arguably the most famous exponent of Sauvignon Blanc on the planet, thanks to his work at Cloudy Bay and subsequently at his own Marlborough winery, Greywacke. He certainly knows how to invest the variety with considerable complexity, using wild yeasts to add extra nuances to the exotic lime, gooseberry and stone fruit flavours. Long and very satisfying. 

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90

2015 Gentilini Robola, Cephalonia

£14, 13%, Oddbins

Best known as the setting for Louis de Bernières' novel, Captain Corelli's Mandolin, Cephalonia also makes some very tasty wines from indigenous Greek grapes. This tangy, bright, wild herb-scented white, made from Robola, will delight lovers of fiction and non-fiction alike. 

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92

2015 Laderas del Tiétar Garnacha, Gredos

£8.50, 14%, The Wine Society

Spain has grubbed up a depressing amount of its Garnacha plantings in the last 20 years, but the grape is still capable of great things, even at this sort of very affordable price. Hailing from the high altitude Grelos Mountains near Madrid, this is a remarkably fresh, refined wine that nods towards Pinot Noir and Cinsault in style. Tangy acidity, raspberry and redcurrant fruit and a long refreshing finish are complemented by silky tannins. Stunning value. 

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91

2014 Domaine Jones Grenache Gris, IGP Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon

£13.50, 13.5%, The Wine Society

Englishwoman Katie Jones' old vine releases from the Maury area are improving with every vintage and are now some of the best in the Roussillon. This Grenache Gris shows the variety's focus, minerality and herbal edge, complemented by notes of pear and beeswax and the faintest kiss of oak. 

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94

NV Taylor's, 20-Year-Old Tawny Port, Douro Valley

£35, 20%, Amazon, Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason, Wine Society, the drinkshop.com

Taylor's isn't as well known for its Tawnies as some houses are - its LBVs and Vintage Ports are up there with the very best - but it should be, based on the quality of this 20-year-old release. Figgy, sweet and complex, with beautifully integrated spirit and notes of umami and orange zest. One of those Ports that you don't want to pass to your neighbour. 

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94

2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Auslese Feinherb, Mosel

TBC, 12.5%, www.sybillekuntz.de

One of a series of delicious releases from Sybille Kuntz in 2015, this is rich, but not heavy in the slightest, handling its 50 odd grams of residual sugar with ease, thanks to its thrillingly vivid acidity. Honey, spices, lime and remarkable palate length are the hallmarks of this classic-meets-modern Mosel style. 

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93

1998 Fonseca, Guimaraens Vintage Port, Douro Valley

£27.99, 20.5%, Waitrose

Mid-way between a single quinta and not-quite-a-vintage Port, this is rich, sweet and easy to drink, but with more structure and concentration than is immediately apparent. Spicy, peppery and showing a little bit of fiery spirit, this has dark, creamy fruit flavours and a complex, chocolatey finish. 

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93

2007 S.C. Pannell Nebbiolo, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

£32.09, 14.5%, Liberty Wines

The list of impressive Nebbiolo producers outside north-west Italy isn't a long one, but Steve Pannell, who has worked in Piedmont to familiarise himself with the grape, would definitely be on it. Suitably pale in colour, with the variety's unique combination of austerity and voluptuousness, firm tannins and sweet, savoury autumnal fruit, this wouldn't look out of place in a line up of Barolos. 

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